Sweet and Spicy Nuts
I guess it must have been the recent Super Bowl and it's avalanche of party food suggestions that got me thinking. Seems there was no shortage of wings, with a world's tour of spices, sauces and crispy coatings. Our local supermarket even bumped aside half of the salad bar to make way for WingStavaganza. Pre-seasoned wings and delectable dips, microwave ready in five (count 'em 5) finger licking flavors. Chex Mix seemed to revive itself from holiday ashes, some with an Asian rice cracker twist, others sugared up with M&M's and chocolate covered raisins. Several chili cook-offs were rumored to have been thrown down. Why, even a football shaped cheese ball was passed across my inbox. I missed all of it.
Those of you among Big Mary's oh-so-intimate circle of friends, know of my emotional allergy to group gatherings (aka parties). Combine that with a determined lack of enthusiasm for football, and it's easy to see the natural progression to my Buffalo Wing deprivation. I come to my anti-social orientation genetically if not honestly as my father was determinedly a family act. Like a hibernating bear he was most content huddled in his den with wife and family within growling distance.
Not so Mama Magel, for whom "the larger the gathering - the better the party" seemed more her mantra. This obvious conflict of social energies proved an ongoing low level of frustration in their otherwise pitch perfect love affair. It's a conflict often stirred up between the Handsome Venezuelan and myself.
Unfazed by my father's reticence, my mother had what could genuinely be called an ace up her sleeve in the form of the very retro phenomenon known as The Bridge Club. Several times a month (in her heyday), Mama Magel enjoyed the company of 7 or more lady friends for an afternoon or occasional evening of neighborhood critiquing, woman banter and card playing. Looking back, it strikes me as a decidedly 40's through 60's sort of thing. Only ephemerally related to the recent enthusiasm for poker playing.
These bridge parties were society for my mother and her friends in Springfield, Ohio; though she did draw the line at attending bridge parties at "The Springfield Club", deeming them too snooty for her tastes. Nonetheless, even her home based parties warranted dressing up, dusting off the Noritake china cups, using the "good" playing cards, making a fancy lunch WITH dessert and purveying snacks that rose above the pretzel sticks and Goldfish crackers we were used to.
For Mama Magel a "fancy" lunch might be Chicken a La King in Pepperidge Farm Pastry Shells (decidedly hard to locate in 1960's Springfield), or a composed open faced sandwich with her famous 1000 Island Dressing. A typical dessert was often a Chocolate Refrigerator Cake or the achingly sweet Peach Cream Pie. But the snacks were a constant, Planter's mixed nuts and Brach's Bridge Mix.
What really was in that Bridge Mix? Wikepedia describes it as a type of candy that is an assortment of nuts, fruits, and cremes all covered in chocolate. Hmmm, my memory dishes up something a little less refined involving vaguely flavored fondants, tough little wads of coconut, and a not half-bad fruit gel all covered in a paraffin laced chocolaty coating. Ambrosia to young FatBoyEddie who was forbidden to touch even one piece until after Bridge Club. Happily the ladies never failed to leave mostly untouched candy dishes as they departed.
While Big Mary's taste buds have refined themselves since those youthful days, hopefully it is not to the level of the snooty dames at The Springfield Club. And though I may shrink from large social gatherings and Super Bowl parties in particular, I still look forward to delicious nibbles when gathering on a smaller scale. If Mama Magel were still dealing hands. bidding suits and taking tricks around the Bridge table, I'd have to send her a pound or two of these Sweet & Spicy Mixed Nuts
Sugar Spiced Nuts
1 large egg white
1 tablespoon water
1 pound raw nuts
2/3 cup superfine sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seed
Preheat oven to 250*.
In a medium bowl beat egg white with water until frothy. Toss in the nuts and mix well. Transfer nuts to a sieve and let drain for 2 minutes.
Meanwhile combine sugar, salt and spices. Put nuts and sugar mix into a bag and shake to coat the nuts well. Place on a baking sheet pan, distributing evenly and place in oven. Bake 15 minutes, toss nuts with a spatula and place back in oven. Lower temperature to 225* and bake for 1 hour more. Toss nuts occasionally as they finish baking.
Savory Spiced Nuts
1 large egg white
1 tablespoon water
1 pound raw nuts
1/3 cup superfine sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin seed
1 teaspoons ground coriander seed
Preheat oven to 250*.
In a medium bowl beat egg white with water until frothy. Toss in the nuts and mix well. Transfer nuts to a sieve and let drain for 2 minutes.
Meanwhile combine sugar, salt and spices. Put nuts and sugar mix into a bag and shake to coat the nuts well. Place on a baking sheet pan, distributing evenly and place in oven. Bake 15 minutes, toss nuts with a spatula and place back in oven. Lower temperature to 225* and bake for 1 hour more. Toss nuts occasionally as they finish baking.
I can claim with a pure conscience that Big Mary's nuts have been held in high regard across all 5 boroughs on New York City. And now they are available to you whenever you desire them. HA!
To gild that nutty lily here's my recommendation. Use walnut halves (and macadamia nuts if your budget allows) when making the sweet version. And use natural whole almonds and pecan halves in the spicy version. Combine them in equal weights and put those out when the "girls" come over.
If you get them good and dry in the oven they'll last at room temperature in an air tight container for several weeks. Alternately you can freeze them. I've never seen them last long enough to worry. Finally, know that you can substitute regular granulated sugar for the superfine, but really don't we all strive to be superfine?
Happy snacking my cherubs!
And Contented Eating
Big Mary
Monday, February 09, 2009
Tuesday, February 03, 2009
Romesco Sauces - Classic Romescu & Poblano Green Romesco
I guess there should be no real surprise that the cuisines of Mexico and Spain should share quite a few in laws via the shotgun marriage of Cortez and Montezuma. The prevalence for pork was one influence, though there's the school of thought that this was more likely a trade off for the Spaniard's eliminating dog from the Mexican's menu. However, this shouldn't diminish the apparent easily developed Mexican appreciation of rice, olives, and citrus.
More likely is an influence toward Spain. Hard to envision Spanish cuisine without tomatoes, peppers, chocolate, and potatoes. All ingredients unheard of in Europe before Spain began the slow and steady annihilation of indigenous North, Central and South American people and their culture.
OK. That's heavy. Let's take two minutes to appreciate that in ensuing years Spain also brought us paella, El Greco, amontillado sherry, manchego, Ribiero del Duero wine, Picasso, saffron and Almodovar just to mention the top end credits.
Truth be told, the recipe I'm about to offer to you was not inspired by some trans-cultural understanding of food history, but rather by an abundance of poblano peppers in my 2nd favorite caterer's walk-in. And that, if fact is often the Mother of Invention when it comes to recipe development; the caterer's version of "necessity".
But as inspiration occasionally reflects on the divine, this is truly a fabulous version of a sauce that is already 4 stars. Before I get ahead of myself, we should talk among ourselves about Romesco Sauce.
I was first attracted to the Salsa Romescu legend years ago in a recipe by Penelope Casas, truly the first lady of Iberian Cuisine when it comes to the US. This was back in the mid 80's before tapas had entered the mainstream of party food. When small plates was a pejorative for nouvelle cuisine. I was researching Spanish food to assist in the catering for the Metropolitan Opera Club's Gala which that year was celebrating Spain as it's theme. Ms. Casas had managed to source an entire Jamon Serrano, then unheard of in the United States, as well as a variety of Spanish cheeses, dulce de membrillo, fig cakes, the list went on and on. Yet I was completely befuddled when attempting to find a resource for the dried peppers that her recipe deemed critical to the success of Salsa Romesco. Yes, this is how it was in those dark years before the Internet made the world our oestra.
Fast forward 10 years or so and find Big Mary in gustatory bliss, savoring the sesonal treat of Calcots a la Plancha con Salsa Romescu in a sunny Barcelona cafe. Grilled Calcots being a uniquely Spanish treat, something akin to a cross between scallions and leeks. A truly authentic repast would have found Big Mary in the fresh country air, surrounding an open fire, peeling back the burnt outer layers of these oniony treats, before dipping them in the oil rich Romescu and consuming them, head thrown back with the panache of a side show sword swallower. Paints a picture, no?
But the best part was that I finally had enjoyed this deeply satisfying Spanish classic sauce, and was heady with the confidence I could recreate it back in Brooklyn. That I did, and have continued to serve it with grilled vegetables, fish, chicken, etc. along with the rest of America as Spanish cuisine has thrust itself into the world cuisine stage and promptly established itself as the leader of most things innovative in the planet's dining rooms.
And so I offer you both versions of Romesco Sauce; a classic Salsa Romescu with an appreciative nod to Penelope Casas, and the previously mentioned Poblano Green Romesco Sauce.
Salsa Romescu
3/4 cup pure olive oil
1 1/2 cup sliced almonds
3 cloves fresh garlic, cracked
1 slice white bread, trimmed and cut into pieces - 3/4 oz
7 large red peppers
3 small canned whole tomatoes, seeded
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons Spanish pimenton (smoked paprika)or regular Spanish paprika
Roast red peppers over an open flame (or electric burner) until well charred on all sides. Place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to cool and then clean all of the burned skin from the peppers. Wipe clean. Remove seeds and discard. Set aside the cleaned peppers. You will need 1 quart approximately.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat until shimmering. Add almonds, bread and garlic. Cook until bread just begins to turn golden. Immediately remove from heat. When bread cubes are completely golden, drain, reserving oil.
Place cleaned red peppers, bread cubes, garlic, almonds, tomatoes and salt in a blender. Add half of the reserved oil and the sherry vinegar and blend until smooth. Add cayenne and pimenton and blend. With the blender running on low, slowly add the remaining oil until the sauce is completely smooth. Check and adjust seasoning if necessary.
Poblano Green Romesco
The only caveat I offer is that poblano peppers are notoriously indiscriminate when it comes to heat. Often they are as mild as a bell pepper, but sometimes they swell to a jalapeno level of spiciness. You can check the heat level by running your finger across the white membrane on the interior of a pepper. Touch your finger to your tongue and you'll have a idea of the heat level you are dealing with. If the poblano approaches incendiary, substitute a portion of the poblanos with a regular green bell pepper, roasted and peeled.
8 large poblano peppers
3/4 cup pure olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and cracked
1 slice white bread (3/4 ounce)crusts trimmed and cut into pieces
1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
Roast poblano peppers over an open flame (or electric burner) until well charred on all sides. Place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to cool and then clean all of the burned skin from the peppers. Wipe clean. Remove seeds and discard. Set aside the cleaned peppers. You will need approximately 14 ounces.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat until shimmering. Add bread and garlic. Cook 1 minute and then add pumpkin seeds. Cook until bread just begins to turn golden. Immediately remove from heat. When bread cubes are completely golden, drain, reserving oil.
Place cleaned peppers, bread cubes, garlic and pumpkin seeds in a blender. Add half of the reserved oil, salt and the sherry vinegar and blend until smooth. Slowly add the remaining oil with the motor running. Season with salt and pepper.
Add lime juice and cilantro right before serving.
So that's Danny Boy's inspired Green Romesco. Please remember this one when the weather sends us all back outdoors to grill some skirt steak. Or for those more tropical members of our family, head out to that hibachi immediately. Either way, this is great on chicken, fajitas, salmon, grilled vegetables... Hmmm just about everything it seems.
Contented Eating my Sweets,
Big Mary
I guess there should be no real surprise that the cuisines of Mexico and Spain should share quite a few in laws via the shotgun marriage of Cortez and Montezuma. The prevalence for pork was one influence, though there's the school of thought that this was more likely a trade off for the Spaniard's eliminating dog from the Mexican's menu. However, this shouldn't diminish the apparent easily developed Mexican appreciation of rice, olives, and citrus.
More likely is an influence toward Spain. Hard to envision Spanish cuisine without tomatoes, peppers, chocolate, and potatoes. All ingredients unheard of in Europe before Spain began the slow and steady annihilation of indigenous North, Central and South American people and their culture.
OK. That's heavy. Let's take two minutes to appreciate that in ensuing years Spain also brought us paella, El Greco, amontillado sherry, manchego, Ribiero del Duero wine, Picasso, saffron and Almodovar just to mention the top end credits.
Truth be told, the recipe I'm about to offer to you was not inspired by some trans-cultural understanding of food history, but rather by an abundance of poblano peppers in my 2nd favorite caterer's walk-in. And that, if fact is often the Mother of Invention when it comes to recipe development; the caterer's version of "necessity".
But as inspiration occasionally reflects on the divine, this is truly a fabulous version of a sauce that is already 4 stars. Before I get ahead of myself, we should talk among ourselves about Romesco Sauce.
I was first attracted to the Salsa Romescu legend years ago in a recipe by Penelope Casas, truly the first lady of Iberian Cuisine when it comes to the US. This was back in the mid 80's before tapas had entered the mainstream of party food. When small plates was a pejorative for nouvelle cuisine. I was researching Spanish food to assist in the catering for the Metropolitan Opera Club's Gala which that year was celebrating Spain as it's theme. Ms. Casas had managed to source an entire Jamon Serrano, then unheard of in the United States, as well as a variety of Spanish cheeses, dulce de membrillo, fig cakes, the list went on and on. Yet I was completely befuddled when attempting to find a resource for the dried peppers that her recipe deemed critical to the success of Salsa Romesco. Yes, this is how it was in those dark years before the Internet made the world our oestra.
Fast forward 10 years or so and find Big Mary in gustatory bliss, savoring the sesonal treat of Calcots a la Plancha con Salsa Romescu in a sunny Barcelona cafe. Grilled Calcots being a uniquely Spanish treat, something akin to a cross between scallions and leeks. A truly authentic repast would have found Big Mary in the fresh country air, surrounding an open fire, peeling back the burnt outer layers of these oniony treats, before dipping them in the oil rich Romescu and consuming them, head thrown back with the panache of a side show sword swallower. Paints a picture, no?
But the best part was that I finally had enjoyed this deeply satisfying Spanish classic sauce, and was heady with the confidence I could recreate it back in Brooklyn. That I did, and have continued to serve it with grilled vegetables, fish, chicken, etc. along with the rest of America as Spanish cuisine has thrust itself into the world cuisine stage and promptly established itself as the leader of most things innovative in the planet's dining rooms.
And so I offer you both versions of Romesco Sauce; a classic Salsa Romescu with an appreciative nod to Penelope Casas, and the previously mentioned Poblano Green Romesco Sauce.
Salsa Romescu
3/4 cup pure olive oil
1 1/2 cup sliced almonds
3 cloves fresh garlic, cracked
1 slice white bread, trimmed and cut into pieces - 3/4 oz
7 large red peppers
3 small canned whole tomatoes, seeded
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons Spanish pimenton (smoked paprika)or regular Spanish paprika
Roast red peppers over an open flame (or electric burner) until well charred on all sides. Place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to cool and then clean all of the burned skin from the peppers. Wipe clean. Remove seeds and discard. Set aside the cleaned peppers. You will need 1 quart approximately.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat until shimmering. Add almonds, bread and garlic. Cook until bread just begins to turn golden. Immediately remove from heat. When bread cubes are completely golden, drain, reserving oil.
Place cleaned red peppers, bread cubes, garlic, almonds, tomatoes and salt in a blender. Add half of the reserved oil and the sherry vinegar and blend until smooth. Add cayenne and pimenton and blend. With the blender running on low, slowly add the remaining oil until the sauce is completely smooth. Check and adjust seasoning if necessary.
Poblano Green Romesco
The only caveat I offer is that poblano peppers are notoriously indiscriminate when it comes to heat. Often they are as mild as a bell pepper, but sometimes they swell to a jalapeno level of spiciness. You can check the heat level by running your finger across the white membrane on the interior of a pepper. Touch your finger to your tongue and you'll have a idea of the heat level you are dealing with. If the poblano approaches incendiary, substitute a portion of the poblanos with a regular green bell pepper, roasted and peeled.
8 large poblano peppers
3/4 cup pure olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and cracked
1 slice white bread (3/4 ounce)crusts trimmed and cut into pieces
1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
Roast poblano peppers over an open flame (or electric burner) until well charred on all sides. Place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to cool and then clean all of the burned skin from the peppers. Wipe clean. Remove seeds and discard. Set aside the cleaned peppers. You will need approximately 14 ounces.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat until shimmering. Add bread and garlic. Cook 1 minute and then add pumpkin seeds. Cook until bread just begins to turn golden. Immediately remove from heat. When bread cubes are completely golden, drain, reserving oil.
Place cleaned peppers, bread cubes, garlic and pumpkin seeds in a blender. Add half of the reserved oil, salt and the sherry vinegar and blend until smooth. Slowly add the remaining oil with the motor running. Season with salt and pepper.
Add lime juice and cilantro right before serving.
So that's Danny Boy's inspired Green Romesco. Please remember this one when the weather sends us all back outdoors to grill some skirt steak. Or for those more tropical members of our family, head out to that hibachi immediately. Either way, this is great on chicken, fajitas, salmon, grilled vegetables... Hmmm just about everything it seems.
Contented Eating my Sweets,
Big Mary
Monday, January 19, 2009
Black Olive Tapenade and Mediterranean Daydreams
I don't mind the winter. Really, I don't. It's January, I enjoy having a little snow on the ground; at least the first day. But once it's grey and sloppy, it really is time for the snow to go. I mean have a little dignity. You look ... less than. Time to consider a rapid melt down.
And there is a definite beauty to the bare black limbs of trees against that blue winter sky that defines the shade sky blue. Inevitably it's at about this point of my revelry that the wind begins to pick up and sway those branches, waving them just enough against the background of white flossy clouds, to focus your soul on the two words that sucks the joy right out of Jack Frost. Wind Chill.
Not many options at this point except to pull the cap down tightly, readjust the scarf and head indoors to the solace of a freshly uncorked bottle of Montepulciano di Abruzzi, Bandol, Rioja or Cotes de Provence. There are the options of tea, hot cider or cafe con leche of course... but this is MY daydream and I'm headed south, and way east. As in France and her southern nether regions and neighbors.
Once unencumbered of scarf, earmuffs, hat, gloves, down coat, boots, sweater, flannel shirt, jeans, long sleeve undershirt, long johns and woolly socks ... I can slip into a short sleeve pastel shirt, linen trousers and sandals. I do live in a typically overheated NYC apartment after all. Next load the CD player with some Edith Piaf, Gypsy Kings and Charles Aznavour, or any other personal favorites. Gather together the selection of St. Felician, Comte and Fresh Chevre I so intuitively purchased yesterday and place it next to the warm baguette I strangely don't even remember buying. But this is my daydream.
So here I am. Perfectly positioned to travel through time and space to spend a warm afternoon on some nondescript locale somewhere between the Costa Brava and Portofino. And yet, fine as fragrant bread, fruity reds and perfectly ripe cheese can be, I needed something quintessentially European, something capable of slapping my sense memory backwards several lives or so, into a lifetime when I'm sure I roamed the planet warmed by a Mediterranean sun.
Ahhhhh. Tapenade. That's the ticket. An earthy, black-purple, oil rich, paste of in your face flavor. Ready to smear, slather and dip into those yeasty chunks of fresh bread. Now I'm nowhere near this snowy Brooklyn landscape.
Make some of this kids. Covered with a thin film of olive oil, it will keep refrigerated for weeks, should it last so long. Great on sandwiches, stuffed in a chicken breast, or schmeared on a crostini with a salad.
Black Olive Tapenade
This recipe makes a little more than a pint, and has been cut down from a larger "catering sized" recipe, so as always feel free to tweak ingredients up or down based on your own perfect palatte.
14 ounces kalamata olives, pitted
(or your own preferred type or mix of black olives)
3 tablespoons nonpareil capers, drained
3 anchovy fillets - top quality
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tablespoons brandy
1 1/2 tablespoons roasted garlic cloves, mashed
Rinse olives in fresh water and drain well. Very roughly chop the olives to ensure no pits remain. Combine all ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Feel free to leave some chunky texture if you prefer. Pack in glass or plastic containers. Lightly cover with olive oil and let "cure" in the refrigerator for 24 hours if you can resist.
There's a treat for you my lovelies. Not much I suppose after so many months absent. But make a batch, call me and I'll bring a cheap and tasty bottle to share. Be seeing you soon.
Contented Eating,
Big Mary
I don't mind the winter. Really, I don't. It's January, I enjoy having a little snow on the ground; at least the first day. But once it's grey and sloppy, it really is time for the snow to go. I mean have a little dignity. You look ... less than. Time to consider a rapid melt down.
And there is a definite beauty to the bare black limbs of trees against that blue winter sky that defines the shade sky blue. Inevitably it's at about this point of my revelry that the wind begins to pick up and sway those branches, waving them just enough against the background of white flossy clouds, to focus your soul on the two words that sucks the joy right out of Jack Frost. Wind Chill.
Not many options at this point except to pull the cap down tightly, readjust the scarf and head indoors to the solace of a freshly uncorked bottle of Montepulciano di Abruzzi, Bandol, Rioja or Cotes de Provence. There are the options of tea, hot cider or cafe con leche of course... but this is MY daydream and I'm headed south, and way east. As in France and her southern nether regions and neighbors.
Once unencumbered of scarf, earmuffs, hat, gloves, down coat, boots, sweater, flannel shirt, jeans, long sleeve undershirt, long johns and woolly socks ... I can slip into a short sleeve pastel shirt, linen trousers and sandals. I do live in a typically overheated NYC apartment after all. Next load the CD player with some Edith Piaf, Gypsy Kings and Charles Aznavour, or any other personal favorites. Gather together the selection of St. Felician, Comte and Fresh Chevre I so intuitively purchased yesterday and place it next to the warm baguette I strangely don't even remember buying. But this is my daydream.
So here I am. Perfectly positioned to travel through time and space to spend a warm afternoon on some nondescript locale somewhere between the Costa Brava and Portofino. And yet, fine as fragrant bread, fruity reds and perfectly ripe cheese can be, I needed something quintessentially European, something capable of slapping my sense memory backwards several lives or so, into a lifetime when I'm sure I roamed the planet warmed by a Mediterranean sun.
Ahhhhh. Tapenade. That's the ticket. An earthy, black-purple, oil rich, paste of in your face flavor. Ready to smear, slather and dip into those yeasty chunks of fresh bread. Now I'm nowhere near this snowy Brooklyn landscape.
Make some of this kids. Covered with a thin film of olive oil, it will keep refrigerated for weeks, should it last so long. Great on sandwiches, stuffed in a chicken breast, or schmeared on a crostini with a salad.
Black Olive Tapenade
This recipe makes a little more than a pint, and has been cut down from a larger "catering sized" recipe, so as always feel free to tweak ingredients up or down based on your own perfect palatte.
14 ounces kalamata olives, pitted
(or your own preferred type or mix of black olives)
3 tablespoons nonpareil capers, drained
3 anchovy fillets - top quality
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tablespoons brandy
1 1/2 tablespoons roasted garlic cloves, mashed
Rinse olives in fresh water and drain well. Very roughly chop the olives to ensure no pits remain. Combine all ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Feel free to leave some chunky texture if you prefer. Pack in glass or plastic containers. Lightly cover with olive oil and let "cure" in the refrigerator for 24 hours if you can resist.
There's a treat for you my lovelies. Not much I suppose after so many months absent. But make a batch, call me and I'll bring a cheap and tasty bottle to share. Be seeing you soon.
Contented Eating,
Big Mary
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Fish Tacos for Dinner
Of all the "four letter words" known to the Gods and moral censors... none is more heinous to Big Mary than D-I-E-T. Oh it's a cranky Mary that wakes to a world devoid of a sesame bagel with cream cheese. But the years march on (that's the good news) and they aren't so gentle when you're toting around an extra pound or 50. So between the aching legs, sore back and nudging physician I've embarked on a slimming regime.
It's amazing how much you immediately begin to crave foods you haven't consumed in months the minute they get labeled forbidden. Eve sweetheart, we should sit down and talk among ourselves... This afternoon I was a quick phone call away from Cold Sesame Noodles from my local Chinese; something I haven't ordered since I learned how to make them better myself a few years back. Nevertheless for a brief moment of desire, they were my reason to live. A cooler head than the noodles persevered and Spicy Tofu with Vegetables and Brown Rice were actually a perfect choice for now and a snack tomorrow of the leftovers. But still.... those noodles , hmmmmm.
So, I felt it in my best interest to start developing calorie friendly versions of what I was craving. As you know by now if you've been reading, my taste runs to the ethnic. Not the most typically diet (there's that word again) friendly cuisines. But I think I really developed a winner with my recent Mexican dinner. Yes I know that tortillas can pack a hefty punch to a slimming plan, but if you have only two and fill them chock full of all the ingredients and garnishes, you just might fool yourself into feeling like you're getting away with a secret treat.
An additional plus to this recipe is that it is a great place to use Tilapia. Not usually a favorite of mine, but widely available at a budget price, and really a good choice here.
Fish Tacos with Refried Beans, Salt Cured Cabbage and Salsa
Now, this is going to be another case where I don't give you an exact recipe, just the ideas. Tacos are just way to casual for you not to improvise on what I set out here. Just make sure you get the cabbage slaw started early.
Salt Cured Cabbage
Very thinly slice about half a small green cabbage, avoiding the core. Toss with several tablespoons of salt, preferable Kosher, and set in a colander or sieve over a bowl to drain for at least an hour, preferably several. The salt will pull moisture from the cabbage, sort of curing it, which allows it to stay crisp and damn tasty. After the hour(s) of draining, taste the cabbage. If it's overly salty, rinse it and spin it dry. If not, proceed. Put cabbage in a bowl, and right before serving add some chopped scallion, thinly sliced radish, chopped jalapeno and fresh lime juice. Place in a bowl and serve soon.
Refried Beans
I'd really encourage you to save time and go with canned beans here, though if you have the time and inclination, dried beans are an economical alternative. If you can afford it, use organic canned beans. It's a product I truly feel warrants the extra cost. They are much lower in salt and somehow seem free of any tinned taste.
Chop a small onion and saute in a small bit of butter. Add a can or two of drained and rinsed beans. I prefer black beans, but pinto or red beans work great and are probably more traditional. Saute with a healthy dash of ground cumin, smoked sweet paprika and dried ancho chile powder. (Here's where you can season to the call of your inner chef, substituting chipotle chile, adding garlic, a pinch of ground cinnamon ... go crazy young chef!) Add maybe 1/2 a cup of water (or cooking liquid from the beans if you've cooked dry beans), turn down the heat and simmer for several minutes. When the beans begin to soften a bit more and the liquid is reduced, perhaps 10-15 minutes; remove from the heat, and using a flat bottomed metal or plastic cup begin to mash the beans. If calories are not a concern, throw in a healthy knob of additional butter (and know I detest you). Continue to mash beans until pretty smooth. Return beans to heat and cook to dry them out if necessary, knowing they will dry further as they cool. Check for seasoning and set aside.
Salsa, etc.
Feel free to purchase a top quality salsa, there are several these days; I love Mrs Renfro's Tomatillo Green Salsa. If you want to make something fresh...
Pico de Gallo is a fresh relish of finely diced tomato, red onion, jalapeno, cilantro and salt. Works great on these tacos, and on just about everything else except Cheerios.
Top other choices to garnish would be diced avocado or guacamole, sour cream or Mexican crema. Drained low fat yogurt works and keeps these fish tacos swimming leanly. Also thinly sliced olives could be tasty. Personally I'd avoid any shredded cheese as cheese and fish just doesn't work for me... but feel free to disagree and shred on. Maybe I could be convinced to consider a mild queso fresco.
In any case, arrange them in bowls to be ready to serve once everything else is ready.
Salpicon of Fish - the main event
As I mentioned, if budget concerns you, Tilapia or Mahi Mahi are not bad choices here. If budget isn't in your vocabulary, you should invite me over for dinner. Then we could enjoy Red Snapper, Striped Bass or Grouper.
Thinly slice a medium or large onion, a red pepper, a poblano(or green)pepper, and chop a garlic clove or three. Saute in a large frying pan or skillet with a few tablespoons of oil. After the onions and peppers soften add some chopped, peeled and seeded fresh tomato. Or do as I do and open a can or two of petite diced canned tomato. Just depends on your location and the season. (If using fresh tomato you may need to add some water to have enough liquid to poach the fish.) Add a dash of ground cumin and cinnamon, some dried Mexican oregano, salt and pepper.
Simmer over low heat until the flavors begin to meld. Add the fish filets and cook slowly. When the filet is half cooked, flip over to finish cooking the other side. If necessary remove the cooked fish to a platter and cook remaining filets. When all the fish is done, gently combine the fish with the tomato cooking mix, breaking the filets into large chunks and finish with some chopped fresh cilantro. Hold in a warm oven as you toast off the corn tortillas over your gas or electric burners, and rewarm the beans.
Bring it all to the table and let your guests assemble the tacos as the imagine them most delicious.
Oh my lovelies, you're just gonna love this. And it does all come together quicker than this might seem. Substitute leftover rice for the beans once in awhile, use baby greens with oil and vinegar instead of cabbage, try sliced rare tuna. You get the idea.
Or throw caution to the wind and garnish with Margaritas! Make mine with salt...
Of all the "four letter words" known to the Gods and moral censors... none is more heinous to Big Mary than D-I-E-T. Oh it's a cranky Mary that wakes to a world devoid of a sesame bagel with cream cheese. But the years march on (that's the good news) and they aren't so gentle when you're toting around an extra pound or 50. So between the aching legs, sore back and nudging physician I've embarked on a slimming regime.
It's amazing how much you immediately begin to crave foods you haven't consumed in months the minute they get labeled forbidden. Eve sweetheart, we should sit down and talk among ourselves... This afternoon I was a quick phone call away from Cold Sesame Noodles from my local Chinese; something I haven't ordered since I learned how to make them better myself a few years back. Nevertheless for a brief moment of desire, they were my reason to live. A cooler head than the noodles persevered and Spicy Tofu with Vegetables and Brown Rice were actually a perfect choice for now and a snack tomorrow of the leftovers. But still.... those noodles , hmmmmm.
So, I felt it in my best interest to start developing calorie friendly versions of what I was craving. As you know by now if you've been reading, my taste runs to the ethnic. Not the most typically diet (there's that word again) friendly cuisines. But I think I really developed a winner with my recent Mexican dinner. Yes I know that tortillas can pack a hefty punch to a slimming plan, but if you have only two and fill them chock full of all the ingredients and garnishes, you just might fool yourself into feeling like you're getting away with a secret treat.
An additional plus to this recipe is that it is a great place to use Tilapia. Not usually a favorite of mine, but widely available at a budget price, and really a good choice here.
Fish Tacos with Refried Beans, Salt Cured Cabbage and Salsa
Now, this is going to be another case where I don't give you an exact recipe, just the ideas. Tacos are just way to casual for you not to improvise on what I set out here. Just make sure you get the cabbage slaw started early.
Salt Cured Cabbage
Very thinly slice about half a small green cabbage, avoiding the core. Toss with several tablespoons of salt, preferable Kosher, and set in a colander or sieve over a bowl to drain for at least an hour, preferably several. The salt will pull moisture from the cabbage, sort of curing it, which allows it to stay crisp and damn tasty. After the hour(s) of draining, taste the cabbage. If it's overly salty, rinse it and spin it dry. If not, proceed. Put cabbage in a bowl, and right before serving add some chopped scallion, thinly sliced radish, chopped jalapeno and fresh lime juice. Place in a bowl and serve soon.
Refried Beans
I'd really encourage you to save time and go with canned beans here, though if you have the time and inclination, dried beans are an economical alternative. If you can afford it, use organic canned beans. It's a product I truly feel warrants the extra cost. They are much lower in salt and somehow seem free of any tinned taste.
Chop a small onion and saute in a small bit of butter. Add a can or two of drained and rinsed beans. I prefer black beans, but pinto or red beans work great and are probably more traditional. Saute with a healthy dash of ground cumin, smoked sweet paprika and dried ancho chile powder. (Here's where you can season to the call of your inner chef, substituting chipotle chile, adding garlic, a pinch of ground cinnamon ... go crazy young chef!) Add maybe 1/2 a cup of water (or cooking liquid from the beans if you've cooked dry beans), turn down the heat and simmer for several minutes. When the beans begin to soften a bit more and the liquid is reduced, perhaps 10-15 minutes; remove from the heat, and using a flat bottomed metal or plastic cup begin to mash the beans. If calories are not a concern, throw in a healthy knob of additional butter (and know I detest you). Continue to mash beans until pretty smooth. Return beans to heat and cook to dry them out if necessary, knowing they will dry further as they cool. Check for seasoning and set aside.
Salsa, etc.
Feel free to purchase a top quality salsa, there are several these days; I love Mrs Renfro's Tomatillo Green Salsa. If you want to make something fresh...
Pico de Gallo is a fresh relish of finely diced tomato, red onion, jalapeno, cilantro and salt. Works great on these tacos, and on just about everything else except Cheerios.
Top other choices to garnish would be diced avocado or guacamole, sour cream or Mexican crema. Drained low fat yogurt works and keeps these fish tacos swimming leanly. Also thinly sliced olives could be tasty. Personally I'd avoid any shredded cheese as cheese and fish just doesn't work for me... but feel free to disagree and shred on. Maybe I could be convinced to consider a mild queso fresco.
In any case, arrange them in bowls to be ready to serve once everything else is ready.
Salpicon of Fish - the main event
As I mentioned, if budget concerns you, Tilapia or Mahi Mahi are not bad choices here. If budget isn't in your vocabulary, you should invite me over for dinner. Then we could enjoy Red Snapper, Striped Bass or Grouper.
Thinly slice a medium or large onion, a red pepper, a poblano(or green)pepper, and chop a garlic clove or three. Saute in a large frying pan or skillet with a few tablespoons of oil. After the onions and peppers soften add some chopped, peeled and seeded fresh tomato. Or do as I do and open a can or two of petite diced canned tomato. Just depends on your location and the season. (If using fresh tomato you may need to add some water to have enough liquid to poach the fish.) Add a dash of ground cumin and cinnamon, some dried Mexican oregano, salt and pepper.
Simmer over low heat until the flavors begin to meld. Add the fish filets and cook slowly. When the filet is half cooked, flip over to finish cooking the other side. If necessary remove the cooked fish to a platter and cook remaining filets. When all the fish is done, gently combine the fish with the tomato cooking mix, breaking the filets into large chunks and finish with some chopped fresh cilantro. Hold in a warm oven as you toast off the corn tortillas over your gas or electric burners, and rewarm the beans.
Bring it all to the table and let your guests assemble the tacos as the imagine them most delicious.
Oh my lovelies, you're just gonna love this. And it does all come together quicker than this might seem. Substitute leftover rice for the beans once in awhile, use baby greens with oil and vinegar instead of cabbage, try sliced rare tuna. You get the idea.
Or throw caution to the wind and garnish with Margaritas! Make mine with salt...
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Gazpacho for August
Will I ever be able to make or enjoy gazpacho without thinking of Pedro Almodovar's classic "Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown"? Hopefully not! Just the thought of an icy pitcher of sleeping pill laced gazpacho invites my queer mind to head off into plot possibilities even the great Spanish cinematographer might have blanched at the mere mention of...
But then there's also the exquisite sense memory of a blazing hot Andalusian summer afternoon in Seville; a city where the houses are purposely built so close together that the eaves almost meet, to provide street shade from the blistering sun. What else would you want for lunch than a tall glass of chilled liquid salad with a gloss of perfect olive oil? There lies the real reason gazpacho and I will always share a secret. Only travel can give you such a priceless souvenir.
In the years after that memorable sun stained vacation, my thoughts on gazpacho have relaxed and expanded. I've learned about the mellow and rich almond gazpacho from Malaga, and have been teased into a more global perspective of such a perfect hot weather solution to sustenance. It's important to remember that with most traditional foods, an important factor in the recipe was to use leftovers and the bounty of the garden in interesting and flavorful ways. More classic recipes for gazpacho will include a judicious handful of ground bread to add substance and sustenance.
In the recipes I'm setting out in the sun, only one uses the traditional thickening of pureed bread. And there it enriches the texture. Most modern recipes forgo the extra calories in lieu of a lighter fresher dish.
Classic Andalusian Gazpacho
10 plum tomatoes - peeled and seeded
1 red pepper - peeled and seeded
2 English (seedless) cucumbers - peeled and seeded
3 medium shallots - peeled
1 very small garlic clove - peeled
1 jalapeño chili - seeds and membrane removed
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 Tablespoons Sherry wine vinegar or to taste
salt & pepper
2 cups tomato juice - approximately
1/4 cup diced peeled and seeded cucumber (optional)
1/4 cup diced and seeded yellow and/or red pepper (optional)
1/4 cup diced radish (optional)
(Note - I try to use a Y-Shaped vegetable peeler on tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Blanching & shocking, or roasting cooks the vegetable more than I like)
Puree all of the vegetables in a blender(or use a food processor for more texture). With the machine running add oil, vinegar and S&P. Stir in tomato juice as desired. The better the tomatoes you use, the less juice you'll need.
Serve chilled with optional garnishes.
Personally I love the romance in the idea of keeping a pitcher of gazpacho at hand in the refrigerator, for heat and humidity swept summer lunches or break times. However the sophistication of the next recipe could also sit pretty on a weekend al fresco dinner table meant to impress.
White Almond Gazpacho in the Style of Malaga - sereves 4 - 6
4 ounces top quality bread - crusts removed (about 5 slices)
1 cup cold water
4 ounces sliced, blanched almonds
1 medium garlic clove, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 small cucumber (peeled, seeded and chunked - about 1 1/4 cups)
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (preferably reserva quality)
2 cups ice water
24 green grapes, peeled and quartered
Tear bread roughly and soak in water for a few minutes. Squeeze slightly dry and set aside.
In the work bowl of a blender (or food processor) combine almonds, garlic and salt. Grind until as fine as possible. Add soaked bread, bit by bit until it has pureed with the almond mixture. If you are using a blender you may need to add a few tablespoons of the ice water to get the bread to achieve a puree.
Next add the small pieces of cucumber and process until smooth.
With the motor running, slowly drizzle the olive oil into the mixture. Add the sherry vinegar, and finally the ice water. Stop processing the soup.
Place a fine sieve over a bowl and strain the soup completely. Press on the solids left in the sieve to extract all possible liquid.
Cover bowl and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight. Check seasonings, adjust salt and/or vinegar if necessary.
Serve in small chilled bowls and garnish with peeled grape quarters.
And now, to insure that you my lovelies, continue to think outside of the box, here's a gazpacho that might be more at home in the equally sun baked sands of Phuket than the Costa Brava. I'm feeling a tall icy glass served by a Thai beauty in a sarong, nursing me from a morning hangover as I sit by the sea, my beach chair garnished with an umbrella. Heaven!
Thai Watermelon and Tomato Gazpacho with Siamese Basil - serves 6 - 8
1 pound plum tomatoes - peeled and seeded* (see notes in preceeding recipe)
2 pounds seedless red watermelon flesh - rind removed before weighing
3/4 pound kirby cucumbers* - peeled and seeded
2 cups tomato juice - Looza brand preferred
3 tablespoons fresh ginger - peeled and minced
1/4 cup fresh thai basil leaves - loosly packed *
2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves - loosely packed *
1/4 cup fresh cilantro - loosly packed
1 tablespoon jalapeno - peeled, seeded and chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
salt & pepper to taste
* Notes - Tomatoes and cucumbers are weighed before peeling and seeding
If Thai Basil is unavailable substitute Italian basil and increase mint to 3 tablespoons
And so beautiful readers, here's your chance to fill that blender with something besides Margarita mix. For us in the northeast, my sisters in the Midwest and my sexy mountain boys, we've only got another month or so to celebrate the sizzling hot and all the bounty it brings. Throw it in the Osterizer and push liquefy.
Happy eating my sweets.
Will I ever be able to make or enjoy gazpacho without thinking of Pedro Almodovar's classic "Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown"? Hopefully not! Just the thought of an icy pitcher of sleeping pill laced gazpacho invites my queer mind to head off into plot possibilities even the great Spanish cinematographer might have blanched at the mere mention of...
But then there's also the exquisite sense memory of a blazing hot Andalusian summer afternoon in Seville; a city where the houses are purposely built so close together that the eaves almost meet, to provide street shade from the blistering sun. What else would you want for lunch than a tall glass of chilled liquid salad with a gloss of perfect olive oil? There lies the real reason gazpacho and I will always share a secret. Only travel can give you such a priceless souvenir.
In the years after that memorable sun stained vacation, my thoughts on gazpacho have relaxed and expanded. I've learned about the mellow and rich almond gazpacho from Malaga, and have been teased into a more global perspective of such a perfect hot weather solution to sustenance. It's important to remember that with most traditional foods, an important factor in the recipe was to use leftovers and the bounty of the garden in interesting and flavorful ways. More classic recipes for gazpacho will include a judicious handful of ground bread to add substance and sustenance.
In the recipes I'm setting out in the sun, only one uses the traditional thickening of pureed bread. And there it enriches the texture. Most modern recipes forgo the extra calories in lieu of a lighter fresher dish.
Classic Andalusian Gazpacho
10 plum tomatoes - peeled and seeded
1 red pepper - peeled and seeded
2 English (seedless) cucumbers - peeled and seeded
3 medium shallots - peeled
1 very small garlic clove - peeled
1 jalapeño chili - seeds and membrane removed
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 Tablespoons Sherry wine vinegar or to taste
salt & pepper
2 cups tomato juice - approximately
1/4 cup diced peeled and seeded cucumber (optional)
1/4 cup diced and seeded yellow and/or red pepper (optional)
1/4 cup diced radish (optional)
(Note - I try to use a Y-Shaped vegetable peeler on tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Blanching & shocking, or roasting cooks the vegetable more than I like)
Puree all of the vegetables in a blender(or use a food processor for more texture). With the machine running add oil, vinegar and S&P. Stir in tomato juice as desired. The better the tomatoes you use, the less juice you'll need.
Serve chilled with optional garnishes.
Personally I love the romance in the idea of keeping a pitcher of gazpacho at hand in the refrigerator, for heat and humidity swept summer lunches or break times. However the sophistication of the next recipe could also sit pretty on a weekend al fresco dinner table meant to impress.
White Almond Gazpacho in the Style of Malaga - sereves 4 - 6
4 ounces top quality bread - crusts removed (about 5 slices)
1 cup cold water
4 ounces sliced, blanched almonds
1 medium garlic clove, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 small cucumber (peeled, seeded and chunked - about 1 1/4 cups)
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (preferably reserva quality)
2 cups ice water
24 green grapes, peeled and quartered
Tear bread roughly and soak in water for a few minutes. Squeeze slightly dry and set aside.
In the work bowl of a blender (or food processor) combine almonds, garlic and salt. Grind until as fine as possible. Add soaked bread, bit by bit until it has pureed with the almond mixture. If you are using a blender you may need to add a few tablespoons of the ice water to get the bread to achieve a puree.
Next add the small pieces of cucumber and process until smooth.
With the motor running, slowly drizzle the olive oil into the mixture. Add the sherry vinegar, and finally the ice water. Stop processing the soup.
Place a fine sieve over a bowl and strain the soup completely. Press on the solids left in the sieve to extract all possible liquid.
Cover bowl and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight. Check seasonings, adjust salt and/or vinegar if necessary.
Serve in small chilled bowls and garnish with peeled grape quarters.
And now, to insure that you my lovelies, continue to think outside of the box, here's a gazpacho that might be more at home in the equally sun baked sands of Phuket than the Costa Brava. I'm feeling a tall icy glass served by a Thai beauty in a sarong, nursing me from a morning hangover as I sit by the sea, my beach chair garnished with an umbrella. Heaven!
Thai Watermelon and Tomato Gazpacho with Siamese Basil - serves 6 - 8
1 pound plum tomatoes - peeled and seeded* (see notes in preceeding recipe)
2 pounds seedless red watermelon flesh - rind removed before weighing
3/4 pound kirby cucumbers* - peeled and seeded
2 cups tomato juice - Looza brand preferred
3 tablespoons fresh ginger - peeled and minced
1/4 cup fresh thai basil leaves - loosly packed *
2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves - loosely packed *
1/4 cup fresh cilantro - loosly packed
1 tablespoon jalapeno - peeled, seeded and chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
salt & pepper to taste
* Notes - Tomatoes and cucumbers are weighed before peeling and seeding
If Thai Basil is unavailable substitute Italian basil and increase mint to 3 tablespoons
And so beautiful readers, here's your chance to fill that blender with something besides Margarita mix. For us in the northeast, my sisters in the Midwest and my sexy mountain boys, we've only got another month or so to celebrate the sizzling hot and all the bounty it brings. Throw it in the Osterizer and push liquefy.
Happy eating my sweets.
Tuesday, August 05, 2008
Sicilian Eggplant Capunata
I'm not exactly sure why I grew up in an eggplant free zone. The first explanation I might toss out would be that my father didn't like it. To be sure, there were damn few things that landed on our dinner table that didn't carry his imprimatur. However, during those years when he was spending several nights a month on the road, my duo dinners with Mama Magel saw all manner of previously rare grocery discoveries. Many of which, most independently minded 10 year olds would have snubbed on principle. Spinach salad, pickled beets, casseroles of any kind - Tuna Noodle, 7 Layer Casserole, Johnny Marzetti (more on that some day), and our shared pleasure, calves liver & onions. All enjoyed with gusto. I suppose it had something to do with rebellion. If Dad hated them, I would love them.
Still, however, no eggplant. So perhaps Dad wasn't the culprit. Which brings us to my second suspicion. Eggplant remains one of the few vegetables not really available canned or frozen, at least not in it's pure state. There were few vegetables that made it to our table without the help of some form of processing. Corn in August and September, green beans round about the same window of opportunity and home grown tomatoes which were pretty much the only thing (other than rose bushes) deemed worthy of planting. From time to time our family might be gifted with some overflow of zucchini from a more agriculturally inclined neighbor which would be quickly dispatched into quick bread, the only approved use of zucchini for Mama Magel.
But to be fair, I think this was pretty much home cooking as we knew it in the center of Ohio circa 1964, until Ms. Julia Child landed in our living rooms and swept out the cobwebs of Middle American kitchens. And although Julia's influence missed Mama Magel by several tablespoons and a generation, I'm proud to report that our kitchen was mostly free of Hamburger Helper, instant mashed potatoes, "Cheez Whiz", frozen pies and other culinary conveniences of the 1960's. I say mostly because of course I pestered Mama Magel into trying them. In the same way I pestered her into buying all those boxes of cereal which I NEVER ate, only so I could capture the prize inside.... Yet frighteningly enough, some of those conveniences stuck! Witness what Gladys christened (and you know I loved her)...
"Quick Spaghetti"
Brown a pound or so of ground beef in a skillet (preferably electric). Add a "Family" size can of Franco American Spaghetti in Tomato Sauce. When hot, transfer to a large bowl. Serve with Kraft Shredded Parmesan and Iceburg Lettuce Salad.
Which brings us to the third possible explanation for the absence of eggplant in my childhood. We just didn't have any Mediterranean neighbors! I couldn't begin to define any of our neighbors ethnicity past "lily white"! Peanut Butter Fudge was about as ethnic as it got. And so it was that the move "home" to Brooklyn was what finally got me thinking about involving myself in a relationship with that big purple bruiser of a veg.
It might well have been a brush encounter with babaganough that made me sit up straight and pay attention to this new flavor possibility. But it was definitely the house made capunata when I worked at "Rosemarie's" in Tribeca that made me submit and worship. That week in Mykonos with the eggplant salad in every restaurant may have cemented the relationship... but then again Mykonos cemented several relationships... (more on that later as well)
Capunata for me, is the sexy, misbehaved brother of ratatouille. Just more bang for the buck shall we say. And my ratatouille can make your knees tremble just a little.
But sugar, this capunata, brings those same knees home to the floor.
This is my version of Capunata, which I enjoy serving very chunky and rustic. The zucchini and celery should still be "al dente". That's my aesthetic. Typically it's served cut smaller and more completely cooked. You find your own capunata bliss and cook accordingly.
Big Mary's Capunata
6 tablespoons olive oil
5 cups eggplant, cut into 1 inch dice
3 cups zucchini, quartered, seeds cut away, & cut into 1/2" - 1 " pieces
2 cups yellow onion, rough cut into 1/2" pieces
4 med cloves garlic, minced
1 cup celery, veins stripped and cut into 1/2" pieces
2 cups red pepper, cut into 1/2" pieces
3 1/2 cups tomatoes, (peeled, seeded and diced) or canned diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons fresh marjoram, chopped (optional)
1/2 cup yellow or black raisins
1 cup chopped black & green pitted olives, very roughly chopped
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar (or to taste)
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
Salt & Pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh basil leaves, chopped
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
In a large skillet, heat several tablespoons of olive oil. When shimmering hot, add eggplant, season with salt & pepper and cook until browned on most sides. Remove to a bowl.
Saute zucchini in the same manner and add to eggplant in the bowl.
Being careful to not overcook any of the vegetables, saute the onion/garlic mixture and the celery and red peppers in a similar separate manner.
Combine the sauteed vegetables in the bowl. Heat a larger skillet with some remaining olive oil. When hot combine vegetables and add tomatoes and marjoram. Cook over medium heat, just until tomatoes start to break down and "glaze/sauce" the capunata. Then add raisins and olives. Simmer for 3 minutes. Add vinegar and sugar to taste, and cook several minutes to combine flavors. Adjust salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar. Stir in basil and garnish with toasted pine nuts.
Serve room temperature, as a condiment or side dish.
And that, my sweets, is the eggplant that stole and continues to tempt my heart, Make it for a party. The true Italian will search you out. And THAT, is rarely a bad thing.
Remember my pretties, food seduces, so get cooking...
Love,
Big Mary
I'm not exactly sure why I grew up in an eggplant free zone. The first explanation I might toss out would be that my father didn't like it. To be sure, there were damn few things that landed on our dinner table that didn't carry his imprimatur. However, during those years when he was spending several nights a month on the road, my duo dinners with Mama Magel saw all manner of previously rare grocery discoveries. Many of which, most independently minded 10 year olds would have snubbed on principle. Spinach salad, pickled beets, casseroles of any kind - Tuna Noodle, 7 Layer Casserole, Johnny Marzetti (more on that some day), and our shared pleasure, calves liver & onions. All enjoyed with gusto. I suppose it had something to do with rebellion. If Dad hated them, I would love them.
Still, however, no eggplant. So perhaps Dad wasn't the culprit. Which brings us to my second suspicion. Eggplant remains one of the few vegetables not really available canned or frozen, at least not in it's pure state. There were few vegetables that made it to our table without the help of some form of processing. Corn in August and September, green beans round about the same window of opportunity and home grown tomatoes which were pretty much the only thing (other than rose bushes) deemed worthy of planting. From time to time our family might be gifted with some overflow of zucchini from a more agriculturally inclined neighbor which would be quickly dispatched into quick bread, the only approved use of zucchini for Mama Magel.
But to be fair, I think this was pretty much home cooking as we knew it in the center of Ohio circa 1964, until Ms. Julia Child landed in our living rooms and swept out the cobwebs of Middle American kitchens. And although Julia's influence missed Mama Magel by several tablespoons and a generation, I'm proud to report that our kitchen was mostly free of Hamburger Helper, instant mashed potatoes, "Cheez Whiz", frozen pies and other culinary conveniences of the 1960's. I say mostly because of course I pestered Mama Magel into trying them. In the same way I pestered her into buying all those boxes of cereal which I NEVER ate, only so I could capture the prize inside.... Yet frighteningly enough, some of those conveniences stuck! Witness what Gladys christened (and you know I loved her)...
"Quick Spaghetti"
Brown a pound or so of ground beef in a skillet (preferably electric). Add a "Family" size can of Franco American Spaghetti in Tomato Sauce. When hot, transfer to a large bowl. Serve with Kraft Shredded Parmesan and Iceburg Lettuce Salad.
Which brings us to the third possible explanation for the absence of eggplant in my childhood. We just didn't have any Mediterranean neighbors! I couldn't begin to define any of our neighbors ethnicity past "lily white"! Peanut Butter Fudge was about as ethnic as it got. And so it was that the move "home" to Brooklyn was what finally got me thinking about involving myself in a relationship with that big purple bruiser of a veg.
It might well have been a brush encounter with babaganough that made me sit up straight and pay attention to this new flavor possibility. But it was definitely the house made capunata when I worked at "Rosemarie's" in Tribeca that made me submit and worship. That week in Mykonos with the eggplant salad in every restaurant may have cemented the relationship... but then again Mykonos cemented several relationships... (more on that later as well)
Capunata for me, is the sexy, misbehaved brother of ratatouille. Just more bang for the buck shall we say. And my ratatouille can make your knees tremble just a little.
But sugar, this capunata, brings those same knees home to the floor.
This is my version of Capunata, which I enjoy serving very chunky and rustic. The zucchini and celery should still be "al dente". That's my aesthetic. Typically it's served cut smaller and more completely cooked. You find your own capunata bliss and cook accordingly.
Big Mary's Capunata
6 tablespoons olive oil
5 cups eggplant, cut into 1 inch dice
3 cups zucchini, quartered, seeds cut away, & cut into 1/2" - 1 " pieces
2 cups yellow onion, rough cut into 1/2" pieces
4 med cloves garlic, minced
1 cup celery, veins stripped and cut into 1/2" pieces
2 cups red pepper, cut into 1/2" pieces
3 1/2 cups tomatoes, (peeled, seeded and diced) or canned diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons fresh marjoram, chopped (optional)
1/2 cup yellow or black raisins
1 cup chopped black & green pitted olives, very roughly chopped
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar (or to taste)
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
Salt & Pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh basil leaves, chopped
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
In a large skillet, heat several tablespoons of olive oil. When shimmering hot, add eggplant, season with salt & pepper and cook until browned on most sides. Remove to a bowl.
Saute zucchini in the same manner and add to eggplant in the bowl.
Being careful to not overcook any of the vegetables, saute the onion/garlic mixture and the celery and red peppers in a similar separate manner.
Combine the sauteed vegetables in the bowl. Heat a larger skillet with some remaining olive oil. When hot combine vegetables and add tomatoes and marjoram. Cook over medium heat, just until tomatoes start to break down and "glaze/sauce" the capunata. Then add raisins and olives. Simmer for 3 minutes. Add vinegar and sugar to taste, and cook several minutes to combine flavors. Adjust salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar. Stir in basil and garnish with toasted pine nuts.
Serve room temperature, as a condiment or side dish.
And that, my sweets, is the eggplant that stole and continues to tempt my heart, Make it for a party. The true Italian will search you out. And THAT, is rarely a bad thing.
Remember my pretties, food seduces, so get cooking...
Love,
Big Mary
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
The Absolute BEST Buttermilk Biscuits
It's always sweet when Life takes you by the hand, invites you on a quiet stroll 180 degrees away from stress and sits you down to a reminder of how perfectly simple a blessing "homemade" can be. Even better if she sits you down next to a generous serving of sweet butter, some strawberry preserves or local wildflower honey. If she's feeling you are particularly deserving, perhaps she's got some sausage gravy up her sleeve..... Eewwww wait. Lets backtrack.
Mama Magel was a strong contender in the kitchen when it came to baking. Her pecan pie, even after her death, can still bitch slap my version into a corner... whimpering, tail tucked and submissive. And I've passed her Poor Man's Pie recipe into so many NYC restaurant kitchens that she's probably achieved legendary status in the home kitchens of immigrant cooks when they return home.
Nevertheless, her frame of reference on a few items was as contained as any housewife of the 1960's. And in the 60's, biscuits came out of a tube, (slammed against the side of a counter), or mixed from a box named Bisquick. Mama Magel opted most often for the "Poppin' Fresh" option. I can only assume that before those refrigerated tubs were an option, my Ohio bred sisters and friends never knew biscuits outside of a literary reference here or there.
And so it is I offer the following recipe to my sisters and you all, dear readers. This was passed to me from my 2nd favorite catering chef (myself retaining the #1 position) soon after I realized I'd be spending more than a passing fancy with this world of food. He describes it as basically a ramped up version of the one from "Joy of Cooking". Seems he's not only correct, but also astute in his ramnping up instincts.
The key to this recipe is not processing the butter too much. If using a KitchenAid (as I do) don't let the butter get smaller than pea size. In reality, you can only err by processing the butter TOO MUCH.
Danny Boy's Biscuits
4 ounces unsalted butter
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup buttermilk for brushing
Cut butter into 1/2" cubes. Place in a bowl in freezer. Sift dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. When butter is very cold, add butter to dry ingredients. Using the paddle attachment process butter and flour until butter is pea sized. (If making by hand, use your fingertips to process flour mix to the proper size.)
On low speed, add buttermilk until barely mixed. Wrap mix in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm.
On a floured board, roll out biscuit dough until 1/2" thick. Fold in thirds (like puff pastry dough) and roll out two more times. (The idea being we are distributing the butter into layers to help the dough "puff" into layers as they bake.)
Return to the refrigerator to allow it to chill completely. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Punch out biscuits with a cutter of the desired size. Refrigerate again, or freeze before baking. Brush with buttermilk.
Bake 10 - 12 minutes
Cheddar biscuits
Reduce butter to 3 ounces
Add 3 oz cheddar to dough at the last minute of mixing. Brush with buttermilk and and top biscuits with additional 1 oz. shredded cheddar. Bake as described.
Herb
Add 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary (or chives, etc) with the butter. Proceed with baking as described.
Sweet ones, you will be surprised at how much better these biscuits get the less you process the butter. You are going to thrill at how something so simple is so soul fulfilling. Don't shy away from some sausage gravy if you are feeling especially Southern! And don't hesitate to layer some Cheddar Biscuits with Ham and Honey Mustard. Ready, Set, Go!
Big Love,
Big Mary
It's always sweet when Life takes you by the hand, invites you on a quiet stroll 180 degrees away from stress and sits you down to a reminder of how perfectly simple a blessing "homemade" can be. Even better if she sits you down next to a generous serving of sweet butter, some strawberry preserves or local wildflower honey. If she's feeling you are particularly deserving, perhaps she's got some sausage gravy up her sleeve..... Eewwww wait. Lets backtrack.
Mama Magel was a strong contender in the kitchen when it came to baking. Her pecan pie, even after her death, can still bitch slap my version into a corner... whimpering, tail tucked and submissive. And I've passed her Poor Man's Pie recipe into so many NYC restaurant kitchens that she's probably achieved legendary status in the home kitchens of immigrant cooks when they return home.
Nevertheless, her frame of reference on a few items was as contained as any housewife of the 1960's. And in the 60's, biscuits came out of a tube, (slammed against the side of a counter), or mixed from a box named Bisquick. Mama Magel opted most often for the "Poppin' Fresh" option. I can only assume that before those refrigerated tubs were an option, my Ohio bred sisters and friends never knew biscuits outside of a literary reference here or there.
And so it is I offer the following recipe to my sisters and you all, dear readers. This was passed to me from my 2nd favorite catering chef (myself retaining the #1 position) soon after I realized I'd be spending more than a passing fancy with this world of food. He describes it as basically a ramped up version of the one from "Joy of Cooking". Seems he's not only correct, but also astute in his ramnping up instincts.
The key to this recipe is not processing the butter too much. If using a KitchenAid (as I do) don't let the butter get smaller than pea size. In reality, you can only err by processing the butter TOO MUCH.
Danny Boy's Biscuits
4 ounces unsalted butter
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup buttermilk for brushing
Cut butter into 1/2" cubes. Place in a bowl in freezer. Sift dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. When butter is very cold, add butter to dry ingredients. Using the paddle attachment process butter and flour until butter is pea sized. (If making by hand, use your fingertips to process flour mix to the proper size.)
On low speed, add buttermilk until barely mixed. Wrap mix in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm.
On a floured board, roll out biscuit dough until 1/2" thick. Fold in thirds (like puff pastry dough) and roll out two more times. (The idea being we are distributing the butter into layers to help the dough "puff" into layers as they bake.)
Return to the refrigerator to allow it to chill completely. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Punch out biscuits with a cutter of the desired size. Refrigerate again, or freeze before baking. Brush with buttermilk.
Bake 10 - 12 minutes
Cheddar biscuits
Reduce butter to 3 ounces
Add 3 oz cheddar to dough at the last minute of mixing. Brush with buttermilk and and top biscuits with additional 1 oz. shredded cheddar. Bake as described.
Herb
Add 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary (or chives, etc) with the butter. Proceed with baking as described.
Sweet ones, you will be surprised at how much better these biscuits get the less you process the butter. You are going to thrill at how something so simple is so soul fulfilling. Don't shy away from some sausage gravy if you are feeling especially Southern! And don't hesitate to layer some Cheddar Biscuits with Ham and Honey Mustard. Ready, Set, Go!
Big Love,
Big Mary
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